We are now adding more videos to Youtube to help group class clients and everyone else see the behaviors we will be doing in class. We will continue to add videos until we have covered all the group class behaviors. We will also add training videos that we think are interesting or helpful. Click the link below.
Beckmansdogtrainingvideos
Here is a list of all group classes coming up in the near future.
Fallbrook Kahoots-Starts Wednesday Dec 16th at 6pm
Rancho Bernardo Kahoots- Starts Saturday Dec 19th at 11am
Poway Kahoots- Starts Sunday Jan 24th at 11am
Ramona Kahoot-Starts Wednesday Jan 27th at 6:30pm
Murrieta Kahoots-Starts Saturday Jan 30th at 9am
Chino Hills Kahoots- Starts Saturday Jan 30th at 11am
Below is a list of what you will learn in the class. I’m also developing a take home packed for all class participants.
Class #1
Rules
Training Theory & Verbal “Bridge”
Clam Behaviors
Troubleshoot
Class #2
Watch, Sit, Bed
Chew Toy Talk, Show Hula
Jumping
Troubleshoot
Class #3
Stay, Heel & Ring Bell
Aggression talk,
Potty Training
Troubleshoot
Class #4
Down, Wait at door, Remote sit & Heel
Exercise talk
Barking
Troubleshoot
Class #5
Recall, Leave it & Heel
Separation anxiety talk Demonstrate Hula
Crate Training
Troubleshoot
Diplomas
My wife and I are proud to announce a new addition to the family. Brynley Mainwaring Beckman was born on September 22. She was 5lbs 13oz. Baby and mom are doing great. She was born with killer highlights in her hair and a lot of it. We are so blessed to have a baby like Brynley and dog like Bosco.
Over the years I have been learning and paying attention to dog and baby introductions. Now I can officially consult/train people on how to properly bring their baby home and live with a dog. Look for this topic in a future blog and possibly a class.
Click here for a short video of Boggie and Bosco playing.
I have been asked to train and relocate a great dog. His name is Boggie he is a wonderful 5 year old Australian Cattle dog/Blue heeler.
His story is that he lived in Santa Fe, NM, his owner died abruptly of cancer. He was relocated to San Diego to live with the deceased’s mother, with help form the sister. She realized that she was not going to be able provide the care that Boggie needs.
They would like me to find a good loving home for Boggie. After having him a few days I can see his personality. He is a very loving dog. As I care,train and play with him he is starting to show his fun, attentive and loyal personality. He barks a new people. He response to all forms of positive reinforcement. He gets along with all dogs but doesn’t seem like much of a player (that may change after he stays longer with me and the dogs at my facility). I’m training him to be better with strangers, heel, the basics and any other behaviors that he will need in a new home environment.
Anyone who adopts him will receive unlimited follow up sessions, group classes for the life of the dog, and you can board him with me in the future (all the things that come with the board/train program)
The main criteria is that he is places in a loving home. He will need a yard but some property would be the best situation. He is a herding dog so any livestock would be great.
I wouldn’t be doing this if I didn’t like this dog and the family very much and think he would be a great addition to someone’s family. His family loves him very much and we are all committed to finding him the right home.
Click the link at the top of the page to view a video of Boggie and my dog Bosco, in action.
Please forward this to anyone that may be interested. Contact me if you have any questions.
Thanks,
There have been many books written on how to raise a puppy and I could and may some day may write one my self. Right now however I am going to touch on some of the most important aspects to raising a social, confident & intelligent dog.
1) Play with your puppy.
I feel the most important aspect to raising a puppy right is to have fun and play with her. Just like human babies, at a young age, playing is learning. Chase them, let them chase you, role around on the ground, play hide-and-go-seek, you get the idea. This kind of play makes the dog want to be with you at a critical period of their life.
2) Feed her most of her food from your hand.
There is no rule that says that you have to feed 2-3 times a day. Put some of his food in your hand, when he is not paying attention say “come Rex” when he comes give him a big handful of food. doing this you will achieve two goals that feeding out of a bowl will not.
- Eating from you will improve your relationship (more specifically, paring yourself with a primary reinforcer like food will make him even more “happy” to smell, see and be in your presence. after a period of time fad out the feeding from your hand and that “feeling”he has while in your presence remains. See Classical Conditioning for more information)
3) Socialization.
Get them into puppy class, go to friends houses who have dogs of similar age, size or temperament. Get them around children, tile floors, stairs, fire works, water, cats, large men…
4) Crate/potty train
I could write a book on this subject alone. Make the crate a very positive, comfortable experience. Anticipate the need to go, and take them outside, reinforce them for going and I don’t mean “good boy” with a pat on the head. How reinforcing do you think that is to a dog. No, I mean give treats use high pitch noises. The more reinforcing you make it the less you will have to do it in the future.
5) Play tug-of-war.
I am a huge fan of this game. It teaches that a hand trying to grab that toy out of their mouth is not a threat, but an opportunity for a fun game. It teaches that another dog trying to grab that toy away from you is not a threat but a opportunity for a game. Now at the same time you have to teach a solid “leave-it”. Tug-of-war is no good if your dog doesn’t know how to stop playing.
My dog and many of the dogs that train at my facility love this game. Sometimes two dogs play for 10minutes straight and they can become very vocal but I have never once seen aggression before, during or after the game. The dog that wins will take off with their new prize while the other dog chases him looking for another try. Always be careful with puppy’s delicate teeth.
6) Chew toys
See my previous blog on Chew Toys.
And of course sign up for my puppy training classes at Kahoots and Camp-run-a-mutt, being held throughout San Diego county.
Thanks for reading.
Joel Beckman
Beckman’s Dog Training has expanded to more group class locations.
Below is a reference for all group class participants and a list of times, dates and locations of upcoming classes.
Camp Run-a-Mutt. Starts Sunday April 5th at 11am.
Kahoots Rancho Bernardo. Starts Sat April 18th at 11am.
Kahoots Ramona. Starts Wed April 8th at 6:30pm.
Kahoots Chino Hills. Starts April 9th at 6pm.
Kahoots Murrieta. Starts May 4th at 5pm.
Please, don’t bring your dog to the first class. We have a lot to go over and it’s much easier without the dogs. Please bring vaccination records, a clicker, treat bag, soft small treats (I recommend Natural Balance lamb sausage roll) and a thin dog bed. You can buy all of these items at Kahoots. Please bring these items to the first class.
You do not have to have any particular type of collar or leash, but we don’t us chock chains or pinch collars. I do recommend a regular buckle collar and 4 ft double ply leash for dogs that pull and any 4ft leash for other dogs .
I look forward to meeting you all soon.
Beckman’s Dog Training is constantly improving the facility to make it the perfect dog training and living area. We have added about 700 sq ft of grass around the pond and 1000 sq ft of open area decomposed granite for the dogs to run and play on. Much of the property has 3 rail fencing, that is double fenced with wire fencing.
We have also added an office/ dog playroom. This new office will allow me to work in the same building that the beautiful dog rooms are located in. (pictures below)
To see a video of the facility click links below.
Dogs playing at facility (Two Board/train dogs and my doberman)
Check out the new office pictures below.
Beckman’s Dog Training is constantly improving the facility and programs. We just added about 1000sq ft of grass and another 1000sq ft of decomposed Granite. The dogs seem to love the new surfaces to play on. Click on this YouTube link to watch a recent video of Bosco, Dutchess and Hawker, using the whole front area of the facility to run and play.
For Dutchess’ and Hawker’s owners I will add training video in the next few days.
I just learned to add links and video to the blog so expect more in the near future.
Hello everyone,
I apologize for the lack of blogs the last couple of months.
Beckman’s Dog Training is doing extremely well thanks in part to Kahoots Pet Supply and Camp Run-a-mutt Doggie Daycare. Through them I’m able to offer group training classes all over San Diego County. If you are interested in group classes please go to the location of your choice and sign up at the counter. You will need to leave a $25 deposit to hold your spot. Some of the classes fill up fast so sign up as soon as possible, and I will contact you with what to bring. The cost is $125 for the six week class. Board/train clients can take the class for just $25.
More locations coming soon!
Below is a list of dates and times of upcoming classes.
Kahoots Ramona: Puppy Class- Starts Tuesday, January 13th 6:30
Adult Class- Starts Wednesday, January 14th 6:30
Camp Run-a-Mutt: Basic Obedience starts Sunday, January 18th at 12n
Kahoots La Mesa Starts Thursday January 22nd at 6pm
Kahoots Escondido (W El Norte Pkwy) Tuesday, February 17th at 6pm
Kahoots Escondido (E Valley Parkway) Saturday, February 21st at 10am
Kahoots Fallbrook Wednesday, February 12th at 5pm
When I was student at Moorpark College I worked with two cougars. We would feed them a soft ground up meat called Nebraska, and also chicken necks. Chicken necks have a bone with meat around the outside. The cougars got all of their necessary nutrients from the Nebraska meat so I asked my instructor who oversaw the big cats why we gave them chicken necks and I’ll never forgot her answer. She said that predators need to crunch things, they have “energy” built up in their jaws that needs to be released. Now I don’t think you will find her comments anywhere in a big cat or animal training text book, and it’s only her opinion, just like most of the content in these blogs are my opinion, but what she said makes a lot of sense to me. We also had a hyena at school. If you have ever looked at a hyena you might notice that they have a very square head with a high crest at the top of the head. That’s because they have huge muscles that go from the lower jaw and connect at the top of the head (if there is one animal that I hope I never get bit by, it’s no doubt a hyena). We used to give that hyena whole cow heads to eat for a treat. His natural behavior is to crunch bone, hoofs, horns whatever. And I would argue that wolves and dogs are as much or more of oral creatures than big cats or hyenas (but not nearly the biting power).
You may be wondering what this has to do with your dog’s chew toys. Dogs also have “energy” that needs to be released. Remember when your dog was a puppy, he chewed on everything, your hand, shoes, table legs… a big part of that behavior was due to puppy and adult teeth coming in, but it’s also such a natural behavior for a dog. Ever wonder why a piece of leather or chair leg seems more attractive than that stuffed animal form the pet store, and no it’s not because he is trying to get back at you or that he’s testing you, it’s because he can crunch and chew on those things.
My dog will distroy just about any “chew toy” that he gets his mouth on. If it’s got a stitch, a seam, or a way he can scissor through it, he will in about 2 minutes. So I’ve had to come up with inventive and safe ways for him to get that “energy” out.
I have 3 criteria for a good chew toy. It has to be 1) safe 2) reinforcing and 3) long lasting. Many things will fit one or two of these criteria but very few fit all three. First let me tell you about some of the ones I’m not a fan of.
Raw hides- they are long lasting, but dogs can choke on them and it can often cause diarrhea.
Stuffed toys- Dogs rarely enjoy chewing on them, unless it’s an obsessive sucking that some breeds are prone to. If torn up the dog can injest the plastic squeaker and nylon filling. I sometimes give these to my dog to thrash and run around with for a few minutes, but never let him sit there and work on it.
Bully sticks-Similar to raw hide.
Rope toys- extreme chewers can pull the rope threads out and ingest them, any long thread that’s injested can cause serious problems.
The items I do like.
By far my favorite is a frozen food filled Kong- I came up with this idea after a lot of trial and error. I would give my dog a kong with the included kong treat and he would get frustrated and give up, so I started to fill the kong with dry kibble and he would get it all out in a minute or two, so I started to wet down the kibble and put it in the freezer so it would be more challenging. Then I got smart and bought a quality wet food, filled the kongs and put them in the freezer and now I have what I believe is the best chew toy available. If you are busy and want to keep you dog occupied and stimulated, think about giving your dog all his food food in this capacity. There is no rule that you have to feed your dog twice a day out of a bowl. I fill kongs each evening for my dog and the dogs doing the board and train program at my facility. Filling the kongs can be a bit of a hassle but it’s a small price to pay for a occupied/stimulated dog. Your dog will learn how to lick it for a while then chew on it to break it up, then drop it on the ground to get the food out.
Other good chew toys are Raw marrow bones- they should be at-least 3 inches long so the dog has to lick out the marrow and can’t just pop it out. Make sure it’s not the end of the cow femur but the long circular marrow filled part. They can be messy if given inside, and if you give a lot of them the dog’s lower front teeth can wear down. The bone is usually too thick to chew and ingest, but the dog should be monitored. I’d take away the bone after the marrow is out. I also sometimes fill the hollow bone with wet food and put that in the freezer, you can save on kongs that way.
Pigs ears- Most dogs go crazy for them, but they don’t last a long time. A little trick is, if people are coming over and you don’t want your dog to jump on them, and don’t feel like doing any training, give your dog a pig’s ear right when the people pull up and then let the people in. Your dog may cruise around showing off the pig’s ear or go somewhere to eat the treat. Then when he’s done with it he will come in without jumping on them because he has already seen and smelled them, and the big meeting/ freak out session that he does at the door has already passed. He may just walk in the room and act like the people have been there for an hour. Some dog’s drive to meet and jump is too high for even a pig’s ear to compete with. I recommend Costco’s pigs ears.
And finally nylabones- they are long lasting and seem to be safe enough (although I have no idea what small plastic fragments constantly going through a digestion system can do to it). The problem usually is that the dog isn’t that into it.
If you get nothing else from reading this, realize that dogs need to chew on things. It’s a natural/healthy behavior that needs to be met. Giving them appropriate chew toys will help them learn to be by themselves, keep them mentally stimulated, wear out their mouth and tongue so they won’t chew and bark as much and give you a break to do what you need to do.
No chew toy is perfect, anything can be torn up and ingested.
I realize this was a long post, if you have found it or any of my posts helpful or interesting or you disagree with anything I have said please comment, it would be greatly appreciated.
